TREADSTONE CYCLES
HARLEY DAVIDSON - DIRT BIKES - DUAL SPORTS - ADVENTURE BIKES - ATVs
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NEW! 2006 Husky Overheating TipsPlus...In-Frame Head and Cylinder Removal Tip
Sprocket Math 101Figuring out sprocket ratios
Pre-ride checks before you hit the track or trails. Nobody likes a DNF!What Gives Harley Engines Their Distinctive Sound?
Dirt Bike Pre-Ride Check List
Preparing Your Bike for Sale
Simple Ways to Prep Your Bike for Sale and
Get the Best Price!
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Sprocket Math 101
I'm often asked about what would be the best gearing selection for different types of riding areas, such as going from MX to Desert. Here are a couple of ways to know exactly what gear ratio will work for any given situation.
Calculating Drive Ratios
To figure out the drive ratio, divide the rear sprocket by the front.
Examples: For 2008 Kawasaki KX 250F
· 48 / 13 = 3.69 – Stock – Can be effective in the woods – Too low-geared on top for desert - Tall MX 1st gear
· 50 / 13 = 3.85 – Will tighten up the gearing – Will improve first gear for low speed – Loss of top end
· 49 /13 = 3.77 – Not too noticeable - Will lower first without effecting top end too much - Good woods gearing
· 47 / 13 = 3.61 – Not too noticeable but will supply more top end speed in each gear
· 47 / 14 = 3.35 – Doubt this bike will pull this gearing effectively – A lot of clutch work - First gear too high
· 48 / 14 = 3.42 – Still a little too high – Bike may have a hard time pulling in sand
· 46 / 13 = 3.53 – Probably the best high-gear setting for the desert - Will pull in the sand - First gear usable
Calculating Percentage Change in Ratios
Now that you know how to calculate the gear ratios, you can use the percentage of change to decide which ratio will work for your situation.
Equation: (New ratio / Old Ratio) - 1) * 100 = change as a percentage.
When discussing gear ratios, the principles for an automobile are the same for a motorcycle. To put this in perspective, when you have a 3.53 differential gear ratio in a car, installing 4.11 gears will improve the vehicle's ability to get off the line faster but limits its top speed - and gas mileage. You have increased torque by giving the engine a mechanical advantage over the weight of the vehicle.
NOTES:
· Positive percentages indicate higher gearing ratios, negative numbers mean lower gearing ratios
· You will gain more top end with the lower ratios but loose torque
· Changes under 3% from the current ratio will net slight results
· Changes over 8% in either direction can produce undesirable results
Examples:
· (3.85 / 3.69) – 1 * 100 = +4.34%
· (3.77 / 3.69) – 1 * 100 = +2.17
· (3.61 / 3.69) – 1 * 100 = -2.16%
· (3.35 / 3.69) – 1 * 100 = -9.21%
· (3.42 / 3.68) – 1 * 100 = -7.32%
· (3.53 / 3.69) – 1 * 100 = -4.33%
Remember, if you are going to change sprockets and they are worn out, it's best to replace them as a set with a new chain.
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What Gives a Harley-Davidson Motorcycle that Distinctive Sound? Treadstone Cycles This design causes the pistons to fire at uneven intervals. This is due to an engineering tradeoff to create a large, high-torque engine in a small space. This design choice is entirely out-dated from an engineering standpoint, but has been sustained because of the strong connection between the distinctive sound and the Harley-Davidson brand. This design, which is covered under several United States patents, gives the Harley-Davidson V-twin its unique choppy "potato-potato" sound. The 45° design of the engine thus creates a plug firing sequencing as such: The first cylinder fires, the second (rear) cylinder fires 315° later, then there is a 405° gap until the first cylinder fires again, giving the engine its unique sound At idle, you can hear the pop-pop sound followed by a pause. So its sound is pop-pop...pop-pop...pop-pop. That is the unique sound you hear! 
By Rich Diegle
There is no denying that a Harley-Davidson motorcycle has a unique sound, even with quiet mufflers, which few owners leave attached. That staccato rumble is part of what makes riding a Harley so enjoyable. Can you say, potato – potato - potato? It sounds funny but basically, that’s the rhythmic beat of a Harley engine – a sound Harley has tried to patent.
Here’s how Harley’s get their distictive sound:
Classic Harley-Davidson engines are two-cylinder, V-twin engines with the pistons mounted in a 45° "V". The crankshaft has a single pin, and both pistons are connected to this pin through their connecting rods.
To simplify the engine and reduce costs, the V-twin ignition was designed to operate with a single set of points and no distributor, which is known as a dual fire ignition system, causing both spark plugs to fire regardless of which cylinder was on its compression stroke, with the other spark plug firing on its cylinder's exhaust stroke, effectively "wasting a spark." The exhaust note is basically a throaty growling sound with some popping.
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Dirt Bike Pre-Ride Check List
1) Correct engine oil and radiator coolant levels are critical to your bike's life - check them before you leave home.
2) Shock sag is important for the balance of the bike’s suspension. It’s not likely to change too often, but it’s a good idea to check it - especially if you’ve eaten too many cheeseburgers and gained five or six pounds since the last time you checked.
3) Keep the chain adjusted to the tight side of your owner's manual's specifications, but not too tight. Checking chain tension is really important because if the chain's too loose, you take a chance on spitting the chain. If it’s too tight, that can bind up the suspension and be hard on the transmission and bearings. Lube the chain before you check the tension. O-Ring chains often loosen-up after they’re lubed. Use a good chain lube to keep the chain rollers rust-free and the O-Rings (if you got them) lubed. I like Maxima’s Chain Wax – doesn’t fling off and keeps the O-Rings conditioned.
4) Bleed the Air pressure in the forks right before you ride. Typically it shouldn't be something you need to worry about unless you're riding somewhere that's a little higher or lower in elevation than home, but bleed them anyway. NOTE: Don’t bleed the forks when they’re warm (between motos). When they cool off, you'll have put them into a vacuum. Also, be sure the forks are fully extended before you bleed them to avoid a vacuum situation.
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PREPARING YOUR BIKE FOR SALE
Simple Ways to Prep Your Bike for Sale and
Get the Best Price!
Clean and polish your bike
You obviously want to make your bike look as nice as possible. A clean and polished bike will be far more enviable to any potential buyer and equate to more money than one that is unclean and/or not polished.
Make cosmetic repairs
Spending a few bucks in to make some minor repairs will go a long way. If a cover or panel has some scratches, a tail light's broken, or a fender is dented, get them fixed. The price to make the repair will most likely be less expensive than the deduction in price that you will have to incur as a result of the cosmetic damage.
Make sure your bike is tuned up and will start with ease
It is very likely that if your bike won't start, you will kill any potential sale instantly. No matter if your issue is a corroded battery connection or a dead battery, your sale will be over. Or, you will end up having a buyer that will hard-ball you into lowering your price.
Receipts for overhauls, repairs, etc.
It is always a good idea to keep your service records and repair receipts. Maybe you had the valves ground or a major overhaul of the engine done. Perhaps you had oversized pistons and a high performance cam put in. You want to be able to show your potential buyer proof of any work that you have done and what the cost of doing so was. The work you have done will likely have a strong influence on what you can get the buyer to pay for your bike. Also, having service records will provide assurance that you have had regular oil changes and routine maintenance.
Always keep your original parts
In the event that you put after market accessories on your bike, make sure you keep all your original accessories cleaned and ready to go. It's possible that the buyer will be interested in having them reinstalled.
Accurately represent condition
Almost every used bike has some sort of performance issue. It does not matter if you are selling the bike 'as is'. Honesty goes a long way and telling your buyer about mechanical defects and performance problems will help you avoid issues after the sale.
Always keep your registration current
Having your registration current can help speed up a sale in some states.
Know the value of your bike, establish the price and be ready to negotiate
It is important that you understand how much your bike is worth so that you do not accept too little. It also makes certain that you will not waste your time or any potential buyer's time. Visit the National Auto Dealers Association (N.A.D.A.). This site will provide you with the average wholesale and retail value of motorcycles of the same model, year, mileage and condition as yours. You will receive more than the average trade-in or wholesale value as a private seller. It is always better to establish your asking price more towards the higher range. Potential buyers will always expect to bargain. If you set your price too low, you have little room for negotiating.
Maximize your advertising 2006 Husky TE510 Overheating Remedy NEW HOT TECH TIP... I recently had a 2006 Husky TE510 in the shop for an overheating problem. Previously, the owner had discovered that the water pump mount nut was missing and that the water pump impeller was spinning freely – obviously not doing what a water pump does best – pump water! After installing a new water pump mount nut and adding an accessory radiator fan, which would help keep the engine cool in stop-and-go traffic, he thought the overheating problem was resolved. It was time for a shakedown ride. Shortly after leaving the city limits, the bike began to overheat again. Even with the accessory fan operating at full-speed, the engine still overheated. As he tried to ride it home, the motor began to slow down and loose power – it was seizing up! The overheating also caused the radiator coolant to spew from the overflow bottle cap vent hole. It took a couple of hours but he was able to limp the Husky home, stopping at regular intervals to refill the radiator from his Camelback. Once in the shop, I disassembled the engine and found that the head gasket was leaking between the combustion chamber and a cooling system passageway (water jacket). Also, the piston had transferred a very small amount of aluminum, from above the top compression ring, to the cylinder. Guess where I found the lost water pump impeller nut? Inside the top of the right radiator! Also, the water pump bearings were noisy so they were replaced. Using muriatic acid I was able to remove the aluminum piston fragment from the cylinder. I broke the glaze from the cylinder walls with a Scotch-bright pad and soapy water. That way the new rings would seat better. How did I take the head and cylinder off in the frame? Here is the HOT TECH TIP I promised you… According to the Husky service manual, you have to take the engine completely out of the frame to remove the head and cylinder. But you really don’t have to! Insert a plastic-handled screwdriver or plastic spacer to separate the head from the cylinder. Then, remove all four of the cylinder/head-mounting studs from the case. You can now easily remove the head and cylinder from the engine cases. To assemble, install a new cylinder base gasket, then the cylinder and lightly seat the lower cylinder mount bolt. Install the head gasket and the head. Insert the spacer again and install all four of the cylinder/head mounting studs through the top of the head and into the case, then tighten them until they seat in the case. CAUTION: The head gasket is made out of a tough metal material, but during reassembly, you still need to be careful not to damage it. Check out the images for a better idea of what I mean. This procedure saved me a ton of time, which translated into a huge savings in labor charges. After replacing the head gasket, piston, rings, water pump bearings, engine oil and filter, cleaning and re-oiling the air filter, then filling the radiator with a Treadstone Cylces cocktail mix of 50% Red Line Water Wetter, 25% Peak antifreeze and 25% water, the over heating problem was resolved. Stay tuned for more time and money saving tech tips from Treadstone Cycles!
Include clear pictures in your print and online ads. Provide as detailed of a description as possible. Attract attention by highlighting or bold-typing specifics from your ad. Offer to provide the VIN to potential buyers. This will enable any prospective buyer to trace your bike's history. Better yet, go to http://www.cyclechex.com/ and print out a history report on your bike and present it to the buyer. That will go a long way to instill confidence in the bike's condition. The VIN will also be needed if any buyer is going to need to apply for a loan in order to purchase the bike.
If possible, make sure your title is ready to transfer
In the event that a buyer shows up with cash, you want to be able to transfer the title instantly. If you have a lien holder holding your title, make preparations to pay off the loan and transfer the title to your name. The last thing any buyer wants to do is wait for a title to be transferred.
Test drives
It is very likely that a potential buyer will request to take the motorcycle for a test drive. It is crucial that you use your judgment carefully. Most dealerships will not allow you to test drive a motorcycle before purchasing. The risk is just too much. If dealers are not prepared to take that risk, why should you? If you do choose to let a buyer go for a test ride, make sure you select on open, public area like a parking lot with a lot of people around. Maybe have a friend follow the buyer in the car and have a pre-determined test drive route.
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Remove TE510 Husky’s Head and Cylinder in the Frame!
